Average Height Of A 3 Year Old Boy In Centimeters Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

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Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

Some obscure and unusual words come to light as we look back at the history of hats and headgear. Having recently finished reading THE PROFESSOR AND THE MADMAN (Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) about the making of the Oxford English Dictionary, I thought it might be fun to explore the definitions and etymology of some of these ancient terms, most of which have all but disappeared from modern usage. [I’ll breakup this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]

To qualify for inclusion below, a word must appear with a squiggly red line in Microsoft Word’s “spell check” tool. So here it is:

Ferroniere

[Fr. ferronnière, a frontlet; a coronet worn on the forehead: after Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait La Belle Ferronnière.]

(See quote from 1960)

1840 THACKERAY in Fraser’s Mag. June 681/2. The sisters..with pink scarves..and brass feronières..were declared very charming. 1908 HC SMITH Jewelry xx. 172 This headdress is known as a ferronière. 1960 H. HAYWARD Antique Coll. 117/1 Ferronière, a chain worn as an ornament around the head with a jewel in the middle.

Good luck

Obs.

[a. F. bonne-grace ‘th’ vppermost flap of the down-hanging taile of a French-hood (whence belike our Boon-grace)’ Cotgr.; f. bonne good, grace grace.]

1. A shade or curtain formerly worn on the front of women’s hats or caps to protect the complexion from the sun; parasol. (See quote 1617; the later one could therefore belong to 2.)

1530 PALSGR. 907 Bone Grace, le moufflet. 1533 Pardoner & Fr. in Hazle. Addl. I. 203 Her grace she wore, with her French hood, When she always went out into the sun. 1595 R. WILSON Pedlar’s Proph. Bij, Fillets and bungraces. 1604 DEKKER King’s Entert. 311 This boon-grace hee made for the purpose of protecting his face from the heat. 1617 MORYSON Itin. III. IV. i 170 French shade of veluet to defend them from the Sunne, which our ancient women borrowed from the French, and called them Bonegraces, now entirely out of the way with us. 1636 DAVENANT Plato. Lovers Wks. (1673) 411 Had she been old enough to wear Bongrace.

fig 1609 HEYWOOD Brit. Troy VI. civil 137 The forest through which the lake flows, Making its arches by the good grace of the Sun.

2. A wide-brimmed hat that shades the face. Arch. or Obs.

1606 HOLLAND Sueton. 75 Wide-brimmed hat [marg. or Bond-grace = petasatus] on his head. 1638 Poems Costume (1849) 140 Straw hats will no longer be good, From the burning sun to hide your faces. 1719. D’URFEY Pills (1872) IV. 107 Her Bongrace of Wended Straw. 1815 SCOTT Guy M. iii, An old-fashioned bonnet called a bon-grace.

3. ‘Garbage bumpers; for hitting obstacles from the sides or bow of the ship’. Smyth Sailor’s Word-bk.

Hoots

Obs. exc. Pov.

[a. OF. huque, heuque a kind of cape with a hood; in med.L. huca (13th c. in Du Cange), MDu. hûke, hôike, heuke, Du. huik, MLG. hoike, LG. hoike, heuke, heike, hokke, hök, E.Fris. heike, heik’, haike, hoike. Ulterior origin obscure. See also HAIK1.]

A type of cloak or cloak with a hood; ‘an upper garment or cloak worn by women and later by men; also subsequently applied to a tight dress worn by both sexes’ (Fairholt Costume).

1415 in Nicolas Test. Vetust. I. 187, I want all my tottande [and] huykes without fur, to divide among the servants. 1418 EE Wills (1882) 37 Also Hewk of grene and other melly parted. 1423 JAS. And Kingis Q. xlix, An huke sche had vpon hir tissew quhite. c1440 [see HAIK n.1]. a1529 SKELTON E. Rummyng 56 Her huke of Lyncole grene. 1530 PALSGR. 231/1 Hewke a woman’s garment, surquayne, froc. Ibid. 233/1 Huke. 1616 BULLOKAR, Huke, a Dutch garment that covers the head, face and whole body. a1626 BACON New Atl. (1627) 24 Herald, in rich Huke. a1657 LOVE POEMS (1864) 210 Like ladies in the land of Luyck, He wears his eternal huyck. 1694 Dunton’s Ladies Dict. (N.), German virgins wear plain or plain clothes, which are sometimes called huk. 1834 JR PLANCHÉ Brit. Costume 181. 1852 CM YONGE Cameos (1877) II. xxxvi. 370 When not in armor, she wore a huque, or tight-fitting dress.

b. Applied to an Arab. haïk: see HAIK2.

1630 J. TAYLOR (Water P.) Ie. (N.), A richer kind [of women] the doe wears a huicke, which is a piece of cloth or stuff lined, and the upper part is gathered and sewed together in the shape of an English bowl, with a fringe at the top. 1660 F. BROOKE tr. Le Blanc’s Trav. 269 ​​(Cairo) They [ladies] go all as ’twere masked and covered with Huke that hides their faces.

Hence huka v. trans., to cover or as with huk; veil, cloak.

1613 H. KING Halfe-pennyw. Mind (ed. 3) Ded. (N.), I will..throw a little bright veil of flawless, supposedly well-intentioned over her, to tuck her in and mask her from public shame.

Bangs

[f. LOVE n.1 + LOCK n.1]

A curl of a special shape worn by courtiers in the era of Elizabeth and James I.; later, any curl or strand of hair of a peculiar or striking character.

1592. LYLY Midas III. ii. 43 Will you have..your loue-locke wreathed with a silk garland, or shaggy hair to fall upon your shoulders? 1628 PRYNNE (title) The Vnlovelinesse of Love~lockes. 1840 MARRYAT Poor Jack and, Lovelocks, as sailors call the curls they wear on their temples. 1894 A. GRIFFITHS Secret Prison Ho. II. IV. ii. 63 Bandoline, which she used to make love curls to decorate her forehead and temples.

transfer 1886 MAXWELL GRAY Silence Dean Maitland I. i. 12 Each [cart-] the horse wore his mane in love locks.

Fountains

[Fr. fontange, f. Fontanges the territorial title of a mistress of Louis XIV.]

A tall headdress worn in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

1689 SHADWELL Bury F. 11, What do you lack, ladies? fine mazarine hoods, fountains, belts. 1711 ADDISON Spect. No. 98 1 These old-fashioned springs rose like Ell overhead. 1883 FG STEPHENS Catal. Press Brit. Mus. IV. 282 The ugly old woman with one eye in the fountain.

Biggin

[a. F. béguin child’s cap. See BEGUINE, note.]

1. Children’s cap.

1530 PALSGR. 198/1 Byggen for chyldes heed, beguyne. 1532 MORE Confut. Tindale Wks. 577/2. 1639 MASSINGER Unnat. Battle IV. ii, Would you like me to transform my hat into double clothes and cloaks? 1755. Expert number 80 (1774) III. 71 Such stock, caps..biggens..as a lying-in hospital would be set up. 1819 SCOTT Ivanhoe xxviii, My brain has been upside down … since a large head was tied round my head.

Cadogan

[Said to be from the name of the 1st Earl Cadogan (died 1726). See Littré, and N. & Q. 7th Ser. IV. 467, 492.]

Way of tying the hair behind the head.

c1780 B’NESS D’OBERKIRCH Mem. (1852) II. ix, the Duchess of Bourbon presented at the court of Montbéliard..[the fashion] kadogana, which until now were worn only by gentlemen.

Toupee

[a. F. toupet (tup ) tuft of hair, esp. over the forehead, deriv. (in form dim.) of OF. toup, top, tup, tuft of hair, foliage, etc.; ad. *LG. topp- = OHG. zopf top, tuft, summit; cf. OFris. top tuft, top, ONorse toppr top, tuft, lock of hair: see TOP n.1]

1. = DULL.

1729 Art of Politics 10 Do we think that modern words are eternal? Toupet, and Tompion, Cosins and Colmar will be called Perika, Sat, Pair Stays, Lepeza by some common man. 1818 SCOTT Rob Roy vi, These fadeurs, which every gentleman with a toupee feels obliged to recite to an unfortunate girl. 1863 Cornish. M.Sc. VII. 395 Wigs are dangerous unless frankly acknowledged. Toupet can easily avoid detection.

b. transf. = TOUPEE b. Obs.

1728 FIELDING Love in Sev. Masques Epil., From you then ye toupets he hopes to defend. 1748 RICHARDSON Clarissa Wks. 1883. VII. 495 A pair of toilets made of brocade or lace vests..with acidly puckered half-strained faces.

2. A horse’s or other animal’s hooves (obs.); a thick head of hair (in quotation marks of a black man).

1797 Sporting Mag. X. 295 Tuft or Toupet, that part of the mane that lies between the two ears. 1834 SOUTHEY Doctor III. (1862) 5 Some of the Congolese make a secret fob in their woolen clothes.

3. attrib., as toupet-coxcomb, -man, -wig; toupet-titmouse, hooked titmouse.

1731 FIELD Mod. husband I. ix, I meet with nothing but a group of toupet coxcombs, who stick their brains on their wigs. 1748. RICHARDSON Klarisa (1811) VII. you. 35 He is not a mere toupet-man; but all masculine. a1784 PRONOUN Arc. Zool. (1785) II. 423 Titmous. Toupet..feathers on the head are long, which occasionally straighten into a pointed crest, like a toupee. 1884 E. YATES Rec. & Exper. II. 238 Carefully arranged toilet wig.

Hence the toupeted nonce-wd. ( tu ptd, tu pe d) a., wears a toupet.

1903 Smart set IX. 53/2 We’re going to dinner with colonels in toupees.

Kevenhuller

Obs.

[f. the name of the Austrian general, Andr. von Khevenhüller (1683-1744).]

a. attribute Applied to the tall cock given to a broad-brimmed hat worn in the mid-18th century. (see Fairholt’s costume in Eng. (1860) 299); therefore also with a hat. b. absol. A rooster of this form; hat strained in this way.

1746 Brit. M.Sc. 309 A lace hat tucked into what our beauties have learned to call Kevenhuller’s cock. 1750 COVENTRY Pompey Litt. II. iv. (1785) 58/1 Jockey-Boots, Khevenhullar-Hats and Coach-Whips. 1753 Est. Commission of Common Sense (Fairholt I. 377) Has not the Rooster of Dettingen been forgotten? noble Kevenhuller discouraged? 1762 Lond. Chron. XI. Chaptol Hat (Planchè), Hats are now worn, on an average, six inches and three-fifths wide at the brim, and strung between Quakers and Kevenhullers.

Nivernois

Now hist.

[Dormeuse

[Fr.; fem. of dormeur sleeper, applied to articles convenient for sleeping, f. dormir to sleep.]

1. Hood or nightcap. Obs.

1734 MRS DELANY Life & Corr. (1861) I. 479, I sent you..dormeuse patron. 1753 Let. Mrs. Dewes in Life & Corr. 260 She hasn’t managed to get her down yet.

2. Travel carriage adapted for sleeping.

1808 M. WILMOT Jrnl. August 16 (1934) III. 363 We started for Dormeuse 4 horses in a row and two before. 1825 VISC. S. DE REDCLIFFE in SL Poole Life (1888) I. 357 The two dark green carriages of Dormeuse and Britchk, which you saw..at Windsor. 1841 LYTTON Nt. & Morning. (1851) 216 Pooh and the four drove up to the door of the inn to change horses.

3. A type of sofa or couch.

1865. OUIDA Strathmore I. vi. 94 (Stanf.) He was lying in the bedroom in front of the fire.

Fred Belinsky

http://www.VillageHatShop.com

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