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Notes From the Couch – A Taste of Home Arrives in the Lowcountry (Cont)
After many years in the nightclubs of Charleston, Jo Meli grew tired of the hectic lifestyle. He longed to open a smaller place with easier hours, and because of his Boston upbringing, he really missed good Italian food. He saw Davide Davino as the most natural choice and the ideal man to share his vision of a small, family-style Italian restaurant where customers are treated as friends, encouraged to peek into the kitchen to talk to the chef and ask questions, and accommodate personal requests if they experience special craving. Meli and the rest of the staff clearly achieved this goal, as some regulars went so far as to bring their own homemade sauce into the kitchen for the chef to taste and critique, often lingering for hours over dessert and homemade Limoncello in the cozy dining room. a room surrounded by shelves of Italian wine while the soft glow of candlelight casts shadows on the butter-colored walls.
Jo and Davide first crossed paths about ten years ago through the culinary scene in Charleston, where Jo came to believe in Davide’s special talent. Authentic Italian cuisine is Davide’s birth and passion for culinary excellence runs through his veins. As a small boy growing up in Naples, Italy, he grew up in the restaurant business. As a boy, he watched his mother Michela in the kitchen preparing family favorites like Eggplant Parmesan and Fritto Misto for the traditional Sunday dinner. Already at the age of fifteen, he worked in his uncle’s restaurant, tasting sauces, learning about flavors and slowly perfecting his unique style. Davide’s uncle still owns a successful restaurant in Naples and will soon be featured as guest chef at Cuoco Pazzo for a private dinner later this summer, when around 45 family and friends will gather to enjoy a special array of Neapolitan delights. Two things are certain: Italian wine will flow like water and waves of laughter will fill the cozy establishment as dusk fades into night and the golden hue of candlelight descends on the dining room like a warm winter blanket.
Davide first considered Charleston as a potential destination after a friend from Naples, who also worked in a restaurant, settled in the lowlands. However, life first took him in a different direction. His uncle in Naples had a friend at the Marino restaurant in Los Angeles where Davide spent 6 years cooking for the rich and famous, offering a taste of his Neapolitan heritage to the likes of Joe Pesci, Sylvester Stallone and Mickey Rourke. If you happen to catch Davide chatting at the table (Davide and Carlo occasionally come out of the kitchen to mingle with customers), be sure to ask him about his boxing matches with Mickey Rourke in Los Angeles. Jo Meli, who seems to have enormous respect for Davide, commented that the veal at Cuoco Pazzo was so tender you could cut it with a spoon. Meli joked: “Davide was sparring with Micki Rourke and now he’s beating veal.”
Davide left Los Angeles in 2005 to settle in the lowlands, where he soon crossed paths with another friend from Naples named Carlo Colella. It’s amazing how fate works. As boys, Davide and Carlo rode motorcycles together in Naples. Now, years later, they are a professional team bringing a taste of their homeland to the Charleston community. If you’ve had a chance to read my previous column, you’re probably aware that Carlo is the other “Mad Chef” and behind-the-scenes culinary talent at Cuoco Pazzo. Carlo started cooking at the age of 18 and also learned the business from his family – mostly a relative who owned a restaurant in Naples. He moved to Charleston in 1996 and found a job at Bella Napoli on Dorchester Road in North Charleston, where he worked alongside Davide for a year before returning home to his family in Italy. He returned to Charleston in 1999, the same year David did, and took a job at La Fontana on Sam Rittenberg in West Ashley. However, his time there was short-lived and he left the city again before finally settling in Charleston in 2007. Carlo is accompanied by his wife Melinda, who is a friendly and attentive waitress at Cuoco Pazzo.
When I asked Jo Meli about his experience working with Davide and Carlo, he couldn’t say enough positive things about the two men. He spoke of their strong Italian work ethic, claiming he literally had to make them take a day off. “They come in the morning, get ready, leave for a while, then come back and work until closing time. Watching them work in the kitchen is like watching a well-choreographed ballet,” said Meli. When I inquired with Davide and Karla about the secret of good Italian cooking, they talked about the virtues of “fresh ingredients”, “simplicity”, “old style” and “real Italian”. According to Karl, the real secret to authentic Italian food is “finding someone who knows how to make it.”
On my last visit to Cuoco Pazz, I actually tried zucchini for the first time in my life. That’s not to say I’ve never eaten zucchini, because I have, but I’ve never really tasted zucchini. I’ve always found zucchini to be soggy, tasteless and, frankly, a waste of time and space. That is, until I tasted zucchini so delicious I still crave the stuff. It was sliced paper thin, marinated in olive oil and spices and sautéed until golden brown. I would return to Cuoco Pazzo for a plate of braised zucchini and a glass of Montepulciano, not to mention the other fine dishes that landed on my table – tender veal and fresh asparagus stewed in a lemon butter sauce, chicken with sliced mushrooms and pasta with a perfect Carbonara sauce. . The braised pancetta is present but not overwhelming, and the dish is creamy and smooth, rich but not too heavy, with a subtle grain of pepper to balance the flavor.
For dessert, I just can’t go past the sinfully rich ice cream, which takes me back to twenty-one years old, standing in the middle of a crowded market in Rome in the blistering summer heat with a spoonful of pure heaven melting on my tongue. Yes, certain tastes and smells can certainly evoke strong memories. At Cuoco Pazz, two hard-working chefs are here to share their precious memories of the heritage of Napoli; a heritage rich in warm family gatherings and colorful plates overflowing with delicious delights created from years of tradition and lots of love.
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